Fluorocarbon rigs have become very popular of late and the benefits are very clear. Low visibility and the stiffness can make it very difficult for Carp to eject one they have picked up the bait.
However, one problem I seem to hear a lot is that people find it difficult to work with. The most common problems I encountered when if first stared using fluorocarbon were the knots coming undone and the gape of the hook being closed up due to the nature of the material.
I would just like to stress a few pointers that I feel would be beneficial to those who are new to fluorocarbon rigs.
I tend to have a system with breaking strain to hook size, the higher the breaking strain the stiffer the material is. If you do not match the line with the hook, it will cause you problems. For example: if you use a size 8 hook and 15lb fluorocarbon, the hook link will close up the gape of the hook obviously rendering your in rig useless.
So if you can remember the following as a general rule, then fluorocarbon is going to be a massive edge to your fishing.
20lb BS- size 2 hook,
15lb BS- size 4,
12lb BS- size 6 and finally
10lb BS- size 8 hook.
I’ve found using this system I’m able to tie effective, fast hooking rigs.
The other thing I can’t stress enough is ALWAYS WET YOUR KNOTS DOWN PROPERLY. Wetting your knots down on your fluorocarbon rigs will aid in avoiding any damage that may be caused to the hook link material when tightening your knots. This is important to do with any line but with fluorocarbon, it’s absolutely essential.
The following rig is my new bottom bait rig and hopefully it will help put a few fish on the bank this season.
Step 1: I’ve selected a size 4 kurv shank hook and 15lb IQ2 fluorocarbon. I begin attaching my hook to the hook link with my preferred knot the domhoff whipping knot. This knot works more effectively than a knotless knot but it is a very tricky knot to tie. If you are not confident tying a whipping knot, the knotless knot will still give you and excellent and very effective rig, so use that instead.
Step 2: I begin to position the knot and tighten down. REMEMBER WET YOUR KNOTS.
Step 3: with the knot tightened and positioned it should look like this. here you can clearly see the benefit of the knot as the hook link is completely in line with the hair. Having it positioned under the eye rather than through it leaves the gape of the hook open and will aid in the hook turning over.
Step 4: I then proceed to trim the hair off and thread a micro swivel onto the shank of the hook. the micro swivel helps the bait maintain a little bit of movement and I also have the option of fishing a favoured “wafter”, leaving the hook flat on the bottom.
Step 5: To complete the rig I then slide a rig stop onto the hook. The rig is then complete as pictured.
As you can see by this palm test, the hook turns quickly and aggressively.
Having an understanding of rig mechanics and knots can benefit your fishing and sometimes give you an edge.
Just follow the tips I’ve given you, experiment and hopefully put a few more fish on the bank this season.
Latest posts by Kirk Smith (see all)
- 5 Steps to tying the perfect Fluorocarbon Bottom bait rig - November 3, 2014
- When to “think different” - October 30, 2014
- Angling Legends Series: Julian Cundiff by Kirk Smith - October 24, 2014